As an L.A. native who grew up around the cholo subculture, I’ve always been fascinated by their unique style and attitude. Cholos have a distinct fashion sense that sets them apart, with some key elements that have remained constant over the decades. In this article, I’ll break down the typical cholo dress code and explore how it originated.
The Cholo Style Explained
Cholo attires are Mexican-American youth who are part of the urban Chicano movement. Sometimes associated with gang culture, cholos have a strong sense of cultural identity and pride in their Mexican roots. This is reflected in their style, which emerged from Mexican-American barrios in the 1970s and 80s.
Here are some of the standout features of cholo fashion:
Baggy Jeans or Dickies
The cholo uniform consists of loose-fitting jeans or Dickies work pants. These are worn baggy and low on the hips, often held up with a belt or suspenders. Dickies were adopted early on as an affordable workwear brand. Large shirts or jerseys are worn untucked over the baggy pants.
Tank Tops and Muscle Shirts
Up top, cholos rock sleeveless undershirts – usually plain white tank tops. These are sometimes worn alone to show off tattoos, or under an open button-down shirt. Fitted muscle shirts are also popular.
Pendleton-Style Plaid Shirts
Another cholo wardrobe staple is the Pendleton wool shirt jacket. These were originally worn by Mexican cowboys, and later adopted by the cholo subculture. They’re worn open over a tank or tee, with the sleeves rolled up.
Tattoos
Tattoos are an iconic part of the cholo look, especially on the arms. Common imagery includes Catholic icons, Aztec art, names, and gang affiliation. Full “sleeves” are the ultimate status symbol.
Bandanas and Hair
Cholos often wear a bandana around the forehead or neck, representing their neighborhood. Hairstyles include the classic cholo widow’s peak, as well as long sideburns, sometimes curled upwards.
Creased Dickies
A key accessory is sharply creased and pressed Dickies pants. Starch is used to create a clean line down the front legs of each pant leg. This pristine look contrasts with the baggy, relaxed top half.
Ben Davis Jackets
Another workwear brand favored by cholos is Ben Davis. Their quality twill jackets and work shirts often appear in cholo ensembles.
Cortez Shoes
On their feet, cholos wear classic Nike Cortez sneakers – ideally in black or white leather. Cortez were first released in 1972, giving them old-school credibility.
Strap Back Caps
Caps are an essential cholo accessory, with strapback style caps turned backwards. Fitted baseball caps featuring the LA logo are also popular.
So in summary, the cholo look revolves around loose-fitting Dickies, plaid flannels, tank tops, Cortez sneakers, creative hair, and plenty of tattoos. There’s immense cultural pride evident in their iconic style.
Cholo Fashion History and Origins
To understand how cholos dress today, you have to look at the history and cultural context that shaped their style. Cholo fashion arose out of the Mexican-American neighborhoods of East L.A. and was influenced by various sources:
Pachucos in the 1940s
The cholo style can be traced back to the zoot suit-wearing Pachucos of the 1940s. They rebelled against assimilation into white American culture by wearing flamboyant zoot suits and ducktail hairstyles. This proud expression of Latino heritage was an early influence on cholo identity.
Lowrider Culture in the 1960s
Another inspiration was the 1960s lowrider culture in Southern California. Cholos customized cars to ride low to the ground, and wore their own unique “Dukes”-style clothes like pressed khakis, plaid shirts, and knit pullovers.
Prison Culture in the 1970s
As more cholos did time in the 1970s, prison culture started impacting cholo fashion. Dickies were popular in prison for their durability, while bandanas represented gang affiliation. Shaved heads and tattoos also became the norm.
Rap and Hip Hop in the 1980s
Cholo style was influenced by 1980s rap and hip hop too. Los Angeles gangsta rap pioneers like NWA and Ice-T sported the cholo look. Dickies, tanks and Cortez sneakers filtered into mainstream fashion.
So cholos pieced together their working class rebel aesthetic from Pachuco, lowrider, prison, and hip hop style – blending Mexican pride with an urban LA edge.
Common Misconceptions
Given their association with gangs, people often negatively stereotype how cholos dress. But in reality:
- Not every cholo is in a gang – plenty are non-criminal youth who take pride in their cultural identity.
- Cholos don’t always wear “gang colors” like blue or red. Their everyday clothes are more neutral and low-key.
- The style has spread far beyond LA now, with cholos nationwide adding their own regional flair. Cholo style is now appreciated more as a fashion movement.
So it’s important to recognize that cholos are not defined entirely by gangs or crime. At its heart, cholo fashion represents cultural roots, neighborhood pride, and defiant Mexican-American style.
Cholas: The Female Twist
Chola girls have their own distinct feminine style within cholo culture. While sharing some key elements like Dickies and plaid shirts, cholas make the look their own:
Thick Eyebrows
Cholas are known for their dramatic arched eyebrows, outlined and filled in with pencil. The brows are the focal point for their makeup.
Dark Lip Liner
Another signature beauty feature is a brown or black lip pencil to outline and fill in their lips. It creates a nice contrast against lighter lipstick shades in the middle.
High-Waisted Pants
Cholas tuck their shirts into tight, high-waisted Dickies rather than wearing them baggy and low. This silhouette shows off their hourglass figure.
Long Hair
Instead of short buzzed hair, cholas often have long, thick, wavy hair. They wear it down, or in a high bun or ponytail. Hair is a point of pride.
Hoop Earrings and Necklaces
Big gold hoop earrings are a chola go-to accessory. They also layer gold necklaces for a glam yet tough look.
So cholas put a femme edge on cholo style – thinks winged liner, red lips, golden hoops and fitted Dickies. The overall aesthetic is still street-meets-Mexican pride.
Modern Variations
While the classics remain, cholo style continues evolving today:
- Black cholos wear more sports jerseys and sneakers than plaid flannels. Hip hop influences their loose streetwear aesthetic.
- Female cholos get creative, pairing Dickies with crop tops, flannels around their waist, and chunky sneakers.
- Tattoos expand from traditional imagery to modern Chicano art styles. Full sleeves and neck tattoos are increasingly popular.
- With streetwear going mainstream, high fashion designers like Saint Laurent appropriate cholo style in their collections.
- Social media allows cholos to share their outfits globally. Cholo fashion continues spreading beyond the west coast.
So the core cholo look maintains its ’70s roots, while absorbing subtle updates and influences. Modern cholos put their own spin on these classics.
The Meaning Behind Cholo Fashion
More than just a style, cholo fashion makes bold statements:
Heritage
It visually expresses pride in their Mexican roots – from Pendleton shirts to Aztec-inspired tattoos.
Identity
The style clearly communicates their distinct cholo identity and subculture.
Attitude
Baggy Dickies, bandanas, and tattoos project a tough, rebellious attitude.
Community
Certain colors and codes reflect their neighborhood or crew.
Resilience
Cholos take an oppressive prison uniform (Dickies) and repurpose it with swagger.
Defiance
Wearing their identity proudly defies discrimination and pressures to assimilate.
So clothing serves as a form of expression and resistance for the cholo community. Their style talks before they do.
Cholo Fashion Around the World
LA cholos may have originated the style, but it has spread globally now through migration, media, and cultural exchange:
Japan
In Japan, cholos are referred to as “chicano” and have adopted the look through their love of Mexican-American lowrider culture. You can spot Japanese cholos in Tokyo wearing bandanas, plaid shirts, cropped pants, and heavily tattooed arms. While they remain a small subculture there, it shows cholo fashion’s reach.
South Korea
In South Korea, the cholo look exploded in the 1990s through exposure to LA hip hop culture. It resonated with youth searching for their own identity. Korean cholos wear baggy jeans, muscle shirts, and shave their eyebrows to look tough. The ” ackura Jjang” or Korean Cholo has a huge presence in the Korea hip hop scene.
Cambodia
Lowriders and cholo style came to Cambodia in the 1990s as deportees brought the culture from LA. Soon local youths adopted the big shirts, dickies, bandanas and sideburns. Cambodian cholos often combine traditional Khmer tattoos and imagery with Chicano style ink. It meshed well with Cambodia’s own cycle and gang culture.
Mexico
Cholo fashion has diffused back into certain subcultures in Mexico like the “banda” music scene. Mexican gangs in Sinaloa, Michoacán and El Salvador now emulate the Spanglish slang, shaved heads and tattoos of LA cholos. An inverted cultural exchange back to their roots.
Polynesia
In New Zealand, Samoan and Maori youth in street gangs adopted cholo style in the 1990s. Local “Nigs” or “Cuz” rock oversized jerseys, bandanas and tattooed tears to look like LA OGs. In Tonga as well, exiled LA gang members brought back cholo fashion. The style resonated with disenfranchised Pacific youth.
Cholo fashion clearly resonates with marginalized youth far beyond LA who see it as empowering and subversive. Its popularity worldwide shows the cultural impact of Mexican-American street culture.
5 Key Takeaways
In summary, here are 5 essential things to know about how cholos dress:
- The style originated in Mexican-American barrios of 1970s LA, blending Pachuco, lowrider, prison and hip hop influences.
- Classic cholo style means baggy Dickies, tank tops, plaid flannels, Cortez sneakers, creative tattoos and hairstyles.
- Cholas add their own femine flair with bold makeup, gold jewelry and fitted clothing.
- Cholo fashion visually expresses pride, toughness, resilience and cultural identity.
- While updated, the core aesthetic remains after spreading worldwide from LA.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do female cholos wear?
Cholas wear dramatic makeup, dark lined lips, gold hoops, high-waisted Dickies or pants, button-down shirts tucked in, and plaid flannels around their waists. Their feminine silhouettes contrast with the guys’ baggy style.
Do cholos wear specific colors?
These days, cholos wear all types of colors and avoid obvious color coordination. In the past, some wore blue (Sureños) or red (Norteños) bandanas indicating gang affiliation. Most now stick to black or gray clothing.
Why do cholos shave their eyebrows?
Shaving eyebrows (removing the tails) was popularized in the 1970s by cholos in prison and detention centers. It was a way to show toughness and mark yourself as cholo. Thinner arched brows are also sometimes plucked or shaved.
What shoes do cholos wear?
The classic cholo shoes are black/white Nike Cortez sneakers, known as “rocnails”. Other popular options are Chuck Taylors, Doc Martens boots, creased leather dress shoes, or chukka boots.
Do cholos still exist?
Yes, the cholo subculture still thrives, especially in LA. The style has also spread worldwide and blends classic elements with newer urban streetwear trends. While gang activity has declined, cholos take pride in the style as cultural identity.
Conclusion
From plaid shirts to Dickies pants to intense tattoos, cholo fashion clearly communicates a rebel attitude and fierce Mexican pride. The distinctive style was shaped by its LA roots yet maintains universal appeal. Today, cholos worldwide continue displaying their identities through bold aesthetics. More than just a fashion statement, cholo style is a symbol of cultural resilience. Explore a diverse range of cultural expressions with our curated list of different types of clothing styles for guys. Their unique codes and styles speak volumes without saying a word. So next time you see a cholo, appreciate the complex history and meaning behind how they dress.