Paris Fashion Week AW 2013 Highlights: Lanvin, Carven, Rochas & more...
Paris Fashion Week is well underway, and there have been plenty of highlights so far. Below are some of our stand-our moments, and you can take a closer look at some of the best looks by scrolling your way through the gallery above.
Full skirts and big drama at Rochas
Fans of the 1950s will be in heaven with Marco Zanini's gorgeous grown-up homage to the era, but don't expect ponytails and bobbysocks. The full skirts were more Dior New Look than Frenchie from Grease, in heavy fabrics topped with rich looking knits or huge trapeze coats (think pregnant Betty Draper). Everything felt big (intentionally so) except the trousers, which were slim, cropped and teamed with flats. Yes, we said flats.
Space-age chic at Mugler
'High concept' is a term that could have been made for Nicola Formichetti, and the concept for this show was travel, an in particular flight - from airline flight attendants to space travel, and everything in between. Apparently this meant space-age cutouts in fur, strange headwear, neon trims, Barbarella patent and fluff, and loads of shiny pencil skirts. But behind the mad styling were some incredible pieces in a beautiful soft colour palette - keep an eye out for the grey-lilac pieces in the coming months.
Oversize outerwear at Carven
If you like statement coats, you're going to love Carven for Autumn / Winter. Just pick your macaron shade and them pore over the many chunky, belted, butter-soft slouchy coats that Guillaume Henry sent down the catwalk in pale blue, bubblegum pink, blush, teal and camel. Underneath you'll need a crushed silk pencil dress with a high neck and long sleeves. And don't forget a zebra print handbag.
Cloudy skies at Manish Arora
Manish Arora used to show at London Fashion Week, and looking at his show this season, it's a wonder he still doesn't. The heavy print-on-print emphasis, the cloudy skies and the bold use of colour had a lot in common with LFW's current darlings, Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto (though Arora was doing bright catwalk prints when these guys were still doing their art foundation courses). The experimental prints scream 'London', so perhaps that's why the riot of colour stood out so much among Paris' more subtle, soft collections. How could we resist a cloud print coat with matching top and skirt?
Ballet babes at Nina Ricci
There were no tutus or ribbon-tie shoes at Nina Ricci, but the way a ballet dancer layers clothing when warming up inspired the way Peter Copping styled the show and put unexpected touches on otherwise very smart pieces. Slouchy leather armwarmers replaced long gloves, a dramatic tie detail on a red suit was, on closer inspection, modelled on a sweater slung over the shoulder, and little knits were tied with ribbon belts over leotards. The success was in the subtlety - the details just added softness, they didn't look overdone, and it made smart clothes instantly more wearable for day.
Bugs, butterflies and beetles at Lanvin
Alber Elbaz has obviously spent some time in his local natural history museum, as a huge part of the Lanvin show was covered in bugs, butterflies, moths, bees, beetles and dragonflies. They were there in prints (on a strapless butterfly-covered dress) and as texture (jewelled bugs on blouses). Dresses just had one or two sparkly dragonflies on a shoulder or hip, or a bee brooch on the chest, while a pajama suit was printed with blue-green beetles. Big coats had textured that resembled the armour-like shells of beetles and bugs, while other pieces had 3D versions of the flowers these insects depend on. We haven't been this excited about insect fashion since Matthew Williamson circa 1998.