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After all that disco bling last season, we were thrilled to see Jenny Packham return to a more refined colour palette for Autumn / Winter 2013 at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week.

Gone were the mini skirts in favour of plenty of gowns, lots of sophisticated sparkle, midi-length tea dresses, and even the odd pair of trousers. The show was entitled 'La Salonniere', and paid tribute to the women of the French salons, meaning the collection was slightly more cerebral and less glitzy than some that had come before.

The key colours were red, deep peacock blue, peach, black and white, with a few dashes of a pretty pale mint towards the end. Skirts were either full, in pale swishing satin, or light-reflecting columns covered in embellishment. The necklines moved upwards, with a very Valentino-esque high jewelled neck and long sleeves appearing on more than one full-length gown.

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Even when doing knitwear, Jenny Packham doesn't keep it simple. One particularly stunning look had a mock cable-knit top covered in silver sparkle, dropping down into a silk full skirt. On first glance it looked like a knitted sweater and skirt but close up you could see it was covered in glitz and the top hung beautifully.

Our picks for red carpet fans of Packham (like The Duchess of Cambridge, Angelina Jolie and Vanessa Hudgens) included a deep peacock blue embelllished gown with elbow-length sleeves and a scoop neck, a 1930s style wrap dress in oyster satin with a brooch at the waist and gently puffed sleeves, a strapless red gown with sparkle and two inky coloured full-length gowns with long sleeves, cutouts and mermaid hems.

See the full collection (all 15 mins of it!) below...