Michael van der Ham AW 2013 3.jpg

There seems to be a trend for designers 'growing up' this season. Felder Felder ditched (most of) the printed skater dresses in favour of heavy texture and killer coats. Matthew Williamson waved a fond farewell to printed chiffon, and Mary Katrantzou took her signature prints in a far more sophisticated, mature route with a restricted use of colour and shape. This growth and conceptual refinement was also strongly evident at Michael van der Ham's show, which took his usual patchwork of brights down a deeper and darker path for Autumn / Winter 2013.

Michael van der Ham AW 2013 2.jpg

Gone were the pastels and the haphazard layering, in favour of earthy shades, deep inky blues, dark burnt red and silver-grey. Van der Ham has always been interested in patchwork, collaged fabrics and layering, but this season it was done in a more reserved way, less GCSE art, more deconstructed chic. Specially developed textiles were designed to create a 'destroyed' look, as if they were vintage clothes ready to fall apart.

Michael van der Ham AW 2013.jpg

Though he usually chooses separates and layered dresses that look like separates, this time Van der Ham showed full-length evening gowns at the end of the show, in shades of black and white with textured sections, sheer panels and white applique. A mid-length number with 3/4 length sleeves and blue accents, an embellished high neck and lurex embroidery was also a stand-out piece.

Here's our video of the show finale, for a closer look at those lovely closing gowns...