Marios Schwab's love letter to London Fashion Week
Marios Schwab set hearts racing at London Fashion Week last night with his beautiful Autumn/Winter 2013 collection entitled "Calligrams". The directional designer (who is famed for his thought provoking creations) showcased sultry yet refined pieces that will no doubt raise a few eyebrows here and there - Schwab even sent out heat reactive invitations to get attendees in the mood!
After running a fashionable 30 minutes late, the show opened with a series of incredible capes in sugar pink, oxblood and slate grey, worn over identical shift dresses detailing a white hemline and sparkling black appliqué on the bust and at the waist. Inspired by the romantic luxury of a handwritten letter, the collection was filled with this black and silver embellishment - PVC skirts were split to the waistline to reveal appliqué detail underneath to create the illusion of heavy lace, and see-through plastic coats were covered in the same swirling patterns. As the show progressed, we were drawn to the unbelievable level of craftsmanship on each piece - fabrics shifted into wine and royal blue velvet expertly cut and draped, intricate hexagonal lace patterns were layered over organza and dotted with mirrored shards, coats were woven in crisscross - everything Schwab sent down the catwalk left a lasting impression.
As someone who describes his trademark piece as "a seductive little dress", Schwab certainly delivered - there were dresses galore, and, as we've come to expect from the designer, plenty of eveningwear to swoon over. Vinyl was inserted into otherwise lady-like dresses, instantly transforming them into something altogether more controversial, but the grandest statements were made in his signature floor length numbers. Creamy swathes of organza was layered under (and over) silk, embroidered with sequins and trimmed with plush velvet, but it was the sheer long sleeved gowns that really stayed with us thanks to some strategically placed embellishment.