David Koma's vinyl queen's at London Fashion Week
One thing you can rely upon from David Koma is a slick, cleverly thought-out collection that feels very cohesive. Each look blends into the next in a way a lot of London's more adventurous designers don't manage.
Not that Koma doesn't like adventure, but he picks a theme and sticks with it, and this season he stuck to what he does best, combining structured volume and clever use of texture to build up modern shapes and killer dresses, using lots of leather and plastic.
In places, the Autumn / Winter 2013 range had hints of the Judy Jetson about it, with exaggerated lines that had a futuristic feel - circular stand-up collars, big peplums and full circle mini skirts, all in block colours (usually red, black or periwinkle blue). In truth, the inspiration wasn't our favourite cartoon daughter, but the circular lines on old vinyl records - and indeed each piece seemed to be constructed from piles of circles laid on top of each other. In the all black looks that opened the show it looked industrial and futuristic, when it appeared in red, it looked sexy and a tad dominatrix.
As ever, Koma eschewed print in favour of texture and laser cutouts, and as the opening leather / PVC / sheer pieces made way for more faceted, metallic trimmed bodycon dresses with flippy circular skirts and shiny trimmed halter tops, the looks got slightly softer and slightly more playful - the blue he chose was much paler and more purple toned than the many other deeper blues we've seen thus far, but didn't look cheap (or bridesmaid-esque) thanks to the cuts and laser-cut details and plastic inserts.
See the whole show in the video below.