London Fashion Week: Aminaka Wilmont AW13
Even at the end of a hectic Fashion Week, I was still buzzing with anticipation over Aminaka Wilmont's show. After falling head over heels for their uncompromising work a few seasons ago, print loving design duo Marcus Wilmont and Maki Aminaka Löfvander snagged the top spot as a personal favourite at LFW, a place which they retained this year with their dark Multiverse AW13 collection.
The Fashion Fringe award winners - who's signature lies in their silhouettes as well as their mesmerizing prints - delivered a monochrome collection unlike any other we've seen this week, one which walked the line between luxe effortlessness and edgy experimental style. Inspired by the theory of the multiverse and sculptural artist, Kevin Francis Gray, the team explored dimensional layering and convergence; trademark drape dresses were covered in silky abstract prints and teamed with distressed leather jackets for an unconventional yet creative look.
Marcus and Maki's musical influences pounded under the feet of those on the FROW (including Mollie King from The Saturdays) as models strutted down the runway with attitude - if last years Aminaka Wilmont girl was hard with a soft side, this years was all woman, self confident, strong, and in a dark mood. Boxy leather jackets, buttoned up blouses and high waisted wool trousers gave way to asymmetrical sheepskin coats, and dramatic optical illusion dresses described as "kaleidoscopic" in the show notes. Drapery and folds on tunics and skirts were precise, sharp and on form; what the collection lacked in colour it more than made up for with tailoring and style. Accessories too were grown up, yet simultaneously not for the faint-hearted, with deconstructed leather heels, claw-like rings and black feather ear cuffs taking centre stage.
For me, Aminaka Wilmont represent a new breed of designer taking over the Fashion Week circuit; they're a duo who triumph by creating directional yet wearable pieces time and time again.