Paris Fashion Weekend Roundup!
In between all of the glamorous late night parties and early morning coffee and cigarettes, Paris Fashion Week had a lot to offer over the weekend, from ready-to-wear pieces that could have walked straight off the catwalk and onto the streets of France, to conceptual collections that would light up any red carpet.
On a quiet Friday afternoon, Isabel Marant offered up an easy breezy SS13 collection that certainly stuck to the book. Everything felt typically Marant - there were tie front playsuits, silk paisley peasant blouses, colourful embroidered details, and embellished simple cut dresses. Like many other designers this year, Isabel embraced a bohemian vibe, sending layered, ruffled cotton dresses and and prairie style lace up tops down the catwalk.
Although the collection was floaty, floral and fun, there was nothing new to whet our appetite; everything on show is quite possibly already in your wardrobe.
In contrast to Isabel's casual efforts, design duo Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren swept us away to a dream like world on Saturday afternoon with their conceptual SS13 collection influenced by the greatest of accessories - the mirror.
Models appeared from a mirrored staircase and stepped out of an antique mirror onto a black and white chequered tile floor, setting an Alice In Wonderland/fantasy tone that would enchant us for the rest of the show. In keeping with the monochrome theme that has dominated the SS13 season, Viktor & Rolf presented a collection built on black and white, punctuated only by the occasional nude, soft pink and dreamy lilac shade. Dresses were show stopping floor length numbers that combined classic Grecian-esque cuts with graphic details like mirror shard belts, reflective pleated skirts and mosaic mirrored patterns. Plexiglass bows and roses appeared on sweet knits and a beautiful woollen cocoon maxi skirt, tulle was draped and wrapped around bodysuits, satin skirts with exaggerated bows rippled as they moved and ruffles of pink and white were packed together so tightly, they resembled fluffy clouds.
Proving once more how masterful they are at producing elegant pieces with modern flare, Viktor & Rolf will go down as one of my favourite shows this year.
As well seeing an abundance of monochrome on the catwalk, we've witnessed the Sixties influencing the cuts, shapes and colours for SS13, and at Givenchy on Sunday evening, Anna Dello Russo, Sky Ferreira, Kanye West and Rachel Zoe packed onto the front row to see what Riccardo Tisci had created under the Givenchy name. The result was a pure, refined collection that echoed design elements associated with the church.
Drawing inspiration from his Catholic heritage, Tisci's models walked to the sound of an organ in pieces that were as feminine as they were tough. Classic Sixties cut dresses, demure knee length skirts and turtleneck tunics were teamed with chunky metal collars and futuristic metallic clips at the shoulders and waists, adding an element of sexuality. Stiff collars, billowing sleeves and ruffled organza bibs conjured images of new age nuns, priests and choir boys, whilst flocked patterns on androgynous waistcoats and trailing hemlines on skirts had an almost marital air.
Stand out pieces included a baby blue dress featuring pinned, floating sleeves that resembled angel wings, a black wet look jacket with an embellished peplum, neckline and cuffs worn over an all black tailored outfit and a sheer white organza dress, visibly layered and detailing a ruffled bust.