Paris Fashion Week: Alexis Mabille
We begin our first day of Paris Fashion Week reviews with Alexis Mabille, a man renowned for blurring the notions of gender and blending the traditional with the modern.
With his background in unisex clothing I had hoped to see more androgyny throughout the SS13 collection, but overall, the show was extremely feminine. That's not to say that there weren't masculine elements - trousers were taped, jackets were boxy and cuts were straight and flattering - but with lilac and baby pink gingham in the mix, it was hard to describe the show as anything else.
Despite the designer describing the Alexis Mabille woman as "a girl who stays in the city and doesn't care about the countryside", his 'Macadam Summer' collection was filled with fabrics and details that proved otherwise, although everything was styled with an urban edge, creating a blasé feel. Gingham dresses were covered with black lace overlay and trimmed with scallops, white lace adorned neck lines and shoulders, waists were tied or belted with silver chain accessories that matched large gypsy-esque jewellery and prairie skirts dragged across the runway topped with cropped jumpers covered in appliqué flowers and embroidered designs.
Compared to other shows we've seen in London and Milan, the show didn't rock my world, but there was no denying it was cute, youthful and definitely one of the most commercial collections so far. For me the stand out pieces were those that echoed Mabille's unisex design past; the electric blue rubber trench and the loose cut black dress crossed with lace at the bust, teamed with biker boots and a ton of jewellery.