Creative Director Nicola Formichetti maintained the cerebral pedigree of his Mugler line for Spring 2013, but injected an almost flirty sense of femininity that never felt juvenile or frivolous.


As is becoming a trend in Paris, a lot of it was about silhouette. While the graphic lines were still there, they seemed to have relaxed in a way, to glorify and highlight the womanly shape beneath. Models took on almost Barbie-like proportions despite wearing high-concept pieces. The waist played a key role, whether it was emphasized at the natural line with corset-like fetishism or rendered in blousy drop-waist dresses. Both were equally feminine in opposite ways.


Also refreshing was the color palette - colors that would be relegated to the fall collections for many designers - maroons, rusts and mustards. Though there were some pastels thrown in for good measure. Also lots of black, done really well. No hiding behind the hue here, designs were complicated and interesting.


The varying proportions, silhouettes and commendable use of texture made this a collection that revealed more and more about itself with subsequent viewings. And isn't that what we all want - clothing we won't get sick of?