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The call sheet for the Zac Posen Spring / Summer 2013 show read like a who's who of the modelling world. Huge names like Naomi Campbell, Coco Rocha, Crystal Renn, Alek Wek, Lindsey Wixson, Angela Lindvall and Erin O'Connor all turned out to showcase the collection of beautiful gowns, retro suits and exaggerated 1940s style tea dresses.

We know what to expect from Zac by now. He is not a risk-taking, trendsetting designer. He is not edgy or grungy. He has a template that works, and he sticks to it season after season. This is a man who knows how to knock up a showstopping red carpet gown, who can work wonders with corsetry, who tailors like a costume designer from a 1930s film set, and knows how to make satin look expensive, not naff.

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They key shape - other than the ballgown - was a more dramatic take on the tea dress. Falling just below the knee, the slim-fitting dress had a wide, flippy fishtail hem, a plunging neckline and cap sleeves. It was seen in embellished florals, rusty Autumnal colours and - in the case of the dress worn by Crystal Renn - in layers of soft blue tulle cascading from a heavily boned bodice.

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There were also separates, including pencil skirts and slim tailored trousers, teamed with bustier tops and layered fitted blouses with acres of pale, sheer fabric puffing out into soft peplums. Not a single item was shapeless or loose - Posen likes to follow the natural curve of the body, emphasising the bust, waist and hips in a very late 40s / early 50s style.

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This feminine, hip-accentuating shape followed through to the eveningwear, with our favourite being the heavily layered green gown worn by Erin O'Connor. Combining Posen's clever satin corsetry with softer side sections, the finished result is stunning and a little unexpected when it comes to shape.

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Shop Zac Posen at Net a Porter and Neiman Marcus.