Milan Fashion Week: Saturday Roundup
Following Friday night's fun and frolics with Donatella and Christopher Kane, we eased ourselves into Saturday at Milan Fashion Week with some absolutely beautiful Forties style frocks at Bottega Veneta.
Soft prints, expert embroidery and a vintage inspired collection with modern accents made for a wearable and forward thinking show that clearly reflected a labour of love. Slim line dresses appeared first, in simple yet detailed floral prints that gradually became distorted; patterns were spliced together for an elegant, mishmashed look, locked into panels or framed by studs. Each outfit was accessorised with sheer tights and a bag, ranging from oversized crocodile clutches and beaded evening baguettes to framed, doctor style bags. Sleeves appeared in a variety of styles (three quarter length, padded and puffed) and crisp white shirts were styled under bejewelled white shift dresses and worn with platform loafers for an androgynous feel.
The pencil skirt made its mark too, panelled at the side seams to create the illusion of shape, as did a flirty, candy striped evening dress that came in two colours and featured a bustier style top and shredded skirt. As the show came to an end, the prints and shapes moved into a graphic, modern territory, with lattice cuts, sheer inserts and digitally inspired florals.
Feeling suitably refreshed, our attention turned to Fendi, who presented an inspirational SS13 collection that challenged the definition of the word 'masterpiece'.
From the moment the first model walked, we it would be a game changing show - Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi's collection is a technical extravaganza, which embraced modern art and traditional forms.
Absolutely everything was created by hand; there were no machines or stitching, every piece was seamless and welded together. This was the design duos take on modernism, inspired by the perspective of the frescoes in the Sistine Chapel. Fabrics layered at different lengths and colour blocked frames created three-dimensional illusions through furs, leathers, and crepe silks. Shoes were almost sculptural in appearance, headbands were coiled, sunglasses were hexagonal and oversized, and the iconic Fendi baguette embraced cubism. The scale and shape of each individual piece in the collection was pivotal to the design and everything from the nails, hair and makeup played a part - it was like watching a living, breathing art show.
To finish, fabrics exploded in colour - fireworks moved into fur trims and sequin covered dresses and coats left everyone watching starry eyed.
Next on our hit list was Peter Dudas and his SS13 collection for Emilio Pucci. Dudas pulled the printed focal point further back than every before this season, relying on a simple colour palette and signature styles.
We were met with a sea of white organza, layered, stitched and panelled to create a romantic, modern look. Sheer veiling and raised patterns emerged, followed by a burst of Vietnam inspired, military references - cameo printed bomber jackets, tattoo embroidery and quilted kimono style coats flowed in and out of mint green dresses. After the shades of green came the glamorous black sheer pieces and flashes of red geometric shapes, which moved into simple cut skirts and full-length dresses, knotted at the sides. The halter neck made an appearance in the final white flourish, and a roll neck pillar red dress served as a fitting closing piece.
Watch the Fendi show!