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Oh Dean and Dan. A tongue-in-cheek reference to a super recognizable element from another brand can be amusing. But a parade of them which overshadow your own designs just seems a bit lazy and amateurish. DSquared is always skin tight and over the top, it's why we love them. This collection just fell a bit flat.

Nineties Versace, Chanel and Moschino were very heavily implied in most of the looks, along with some instantly recognizable Cartier typeface on T-shirts. Being struck by one reference after another was just too much. Especially in combination with the super sexy, '90s supermodelesque aesthetic. The girls pulled it off, but the clothes didn't. The cheesiness was too blatant to be kitsch. It also felt like a failing of the styling as much as any of the designs themselves. The attempts at updates - like exaggeratedly oversized chain and pearl necklaces - looked cartoonish. The hats (yacht captain? Police officer? I don't know.) were distracting at best.

There were some cute wearable separates that fans will surely zoom in on, and the denim and shrunken moto jackets we've come to expect from the brand. It's not that the line won't sell, it's just not a step forward, creatively, for the brand.