Drama at Gianfranco Ferre's SS13 show
The Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2013 show was mired in bad news for the fashion house. Reports started surfacing before the show of a struggle between the current owners - the Paris Group - and Italian state commissioners. One fact that seems to be confirmed is that the house will be leaving their Via Pontaccio headquarters where Ferre always showed his collections. This follows legal troubles resulting from 2 years the house spent in bankruptcy. No word on if this will affect the positions of designers' Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi's jobs.
Speaking of their jobs, they're doing great! Lush but minimal, this was another heavily white runway, with the remainder in black. Citron and Piaggi are continuing to modernize Ferre's legacy with drapey but geometric shapes. The undercurrent of 80s aesthetic remains but is becoming less and less literal. The designers noted the photography of Guy Bourdin as an inspiration, which could be seen in the highly stylized looks and a surreal edge.
Wearable pieces mingled with more editorial visions, with the emphasis obviously being on a chic take on simple basics that buyers could rationalize. The designers have to be focused on sales to a great degree, but it didn't seem detrimental to the fashion.