Jean Paul Gaultier's AW12 couture line inspired by Pete Doherty
Jean Paul Gaultier is known for taking a risque approach to his work, and frankly, we wouldn't want it any other way. Not perturbed by the controversy surrounding his last couture show - a fashionable dedication to the late singer, Amy Winehouse - Gaultier's muse for his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection will no doubt raise a few more eyebrows.
Inspired by unlikely fashion icon Pete Doherty, the French designer presented a collection that was as poetic as it was scandalous. After a 90-minute late start, Doherty appeared, providing the musical backdrop for Gaultier's show; and what a show it was! Gaultier, who sat on the panel of judges at the Cannes Film Festival this year, shared his love for the movies with an excitable crowd; black and white images flashed throughout the show, and cinematic references echoed in the clothing. The models walked down a mirrored catwalk that almost resembled a red carpet as it reflected a blood red hue, the strip bulb lighting evoking images of theatrical makeup mirrors and camera flashes. Erin'O Connor opened the decadent show in a beautiful tailcoat (with a top hat and umbrella to boot) setting the androgynous tone that would carry the collection to the finale. Stunning male model Andrej Pejic first appeared in an outfit that seemed befitting of his status - a half tailored suit, half sheer creation - and later in an opulent gold embellished dress.
Detailing such as fob watches, hair nets, cigarettes, red lips and kohl rimmed eyes enhanced the 1920's vibe, whilst extreme fringing, extravagant furs and metal corsetry gave the collection a futuristic flapper girl feel. Style.com pinned the colour scheme perfectly, describing the palette of absinthe, coral, gold and papal purple as, "the colours of opium dreams". Indeed, the majority of the standout pieces were the most colourful- a slate coat with bunched fur arms worn over a delicately punched out dress, a chiffon lilac and black printed peach trouser suit worn with a tri-coloured jacket that Meadham Kirchhoff would no doubt envy, and a burnished yellow dress with graphic chevron lines, sheer panelling and puce, gold, and black fringing.
Of course, this wouldn't be a Jean Paul Gaultier show without a corset - this year the designer transformed the iconic shape into a spectacular golden cage that underpinned the 'science fiction meets dandy' element of the entire collection.