My first show today was Ruffian and it was a calm affair for a snowy 9 a.m. at Lincoln Center. There were a lot of English countryside references - plaid suits, tough outerwear - with a gorgeous beauty look reminiscent of an old-fashioned weekend house party. Creative Directors Brian Wolk & Claude Morais said that the collection's visual dialogue began "while viewing bronze sculptures of Henry Moore set against the backdrop of English estates." The fabrics were not the nubby tweeds you might expect, however, but a much lighter and more fluid wool.


The collection was fairly cohesive, but I found the more office appropriate silhouettes - belted knee-length sheath dresses and a white blouse with black pencil skirt - a bit out of place. Overall very chic, with references that were recognizable without being too over the top.