Paul Smith presents soft androgyny at London Fashion Week AW12
The award for starting perhaps a little too fashionably late goes to the one and only Paul Smith for his show in South London yesterday. However, his AW12 collection was well worth the wait, and left everyone wanting more...
Men's tailoring featured heavily and as always, it was far from boring. Classic pieces came with a twist, with trademark trousers presented in plush velveteen fabrics and deep colours. Clearly inspired by texture this season, Smith sent a variety down the catwalk (including wool, tweed, silk and velvet) and layered it in a wonderful, almost eccentric way - it was preppy but chic, a softer take on the androgynous look without trying too hard.
Loose ponytails and smoky eyes added a devil may care attitude, giving each model, and indeed each outfit, a real sense of individuality. Masculine touches could be seen in the coat lapels and stiff shirts worn under knits looked fresh and covetable. Femininity was elegantly thrown in, like a fashionable after thought, with tweed handbags, delicate jewellery, retro style sunglasses and patent Mary Jane-esque heels. There were patent loafers too, with fantastically colourful soles which flashed the crowd as the models sashayed down the catwalk.
The collection was a rich blend of aubergine, teals and grey, juxtaposed with cream and salmon, which lifted the darker shades. As well as luxurious pyjama style prints, there were tweeds, checks, and then, glamorous sheer sparkling blouses with sharp white collars and cuffs.
At the end of the show I couldn't stop thinking about cigarette pants with tweed boyfriend overcoats - sure staples from Paul Smith for your Autumn/Winter wardrobe this year.