Jonathan Saunders' subtle London Fashion Week AW 2012 success
A surprise emerging trend at London Fashion Week this season seems to be restraint. Designers known for bold and bright, oddball collections have been toning it down; perhaps because this is an Autumn / Winter collection, or perhaps because the mood is somewhat dark in the capital and we missed the memo.
Jonathan Saunders was no exception, chosing a palette of deeper shades in heavier fabrics, with fewer prints than we've seen from him for a few seasons. This isn't to say the collection was boring, only more sophisticated and cerebral than last season's riot of pastels and prints.
Citing cult Japanese film Battle Royale as one of many inspirations, the collection definitely had a uniform quality that echoed the school clothing worn by the doomed kids in the film, albeit in different colours and textures. Jumpers were worn over buttoned-up shirts, with flippy school skirts and slightly-too-large coats or blazers. They came in a grey check with darker bands, stripes and chevrons, heavy waffle-like pastels, and shiny apple green.
Print-wise, big photographic florals emblazoned buttoned-up dresses, and a belt that dipped at the waist fastened many of these, adding more curves to an already stiff, rounded silhouette and creating one of the most memorable looks from the show.