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A surprise emerging trend at London Fashion Week this season seems to be restraint. Designers known for bold and bright, oddball collections have been toning it down; perhaps because this is an Autumn / Winter collection, or perhaps because the mood is somewhat dark in the capital and we missed the memo.

Jonathan Saunders was no exception, chosing a palette of deeper shades in heavier fabrics, with fewer prints than we've seen from him for a few seasons. This isn't to say the collection was boring, only more sophisticated and cerebral than last season's riot of pastels and prints.

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Citing cult Japanese film Battle Royale as one of many inspirations, the collection definitely had a uniform quality that echoed the school clothing worn by the doomed kids in the film, albeit in different colours and textures. Jumpers were worn over buttoned-up shirts, with flippy school skirts and slightly-too-large coats or blazers. They came in a grey check with darker bands, stripes and chevrons, heavy waffle-like pastels, and shiny apple green.

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Print-wise, big photographic florals emblazoned buttoned-up dresses, and a belt that dipped at the waist fastened many of these, adding more curves to an already stiff, rounded silhouette and creating one of the most memorable looks from the show.

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