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A refined if somewhat pared back collection greeted us at Marios Schwab's show this morning. With the Austrian architect, Alfred Loos and Japanese author Jun'ichirō Tanizaki inspiring his designs, we should have known we were in for a runway show with clear direction and vision.

The collection consisted of rich layers of wool and leather which struck a clever balance between structure and movement. The traditional feel was underpinned with a concentration of craftsmanship; harnessed shapes and buckled detail defined lines and echoed a hard wearing uniform aesthetic. Shapes were classic while colours spanned from black to an array of jewel toned hues. Pearls were used in twisting drapes which fell from dresses.

Leather gloves and tightly pulled back hair added to the severe aesthetic. Overall, a serious and classic take on Autumn/Winter 2011. Is it one of those dying to get our hands on, must have collections? Sadly not.

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