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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2008-9: Jean-Paul Gaultier

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Talk about making impressions: while PETA seethes, Jean Paul Gaultier bares teeth. Ever one to create a talking point, Gaultier moves from fish (Marion Cotillard's Oscar dress) to fur in his A/W collection for Paris Fashion Week.

Striding to a rather alarming mix of bleats and beats (a remix of Michael Jackson's 'Thriller' with animal calls), the models were decked out in a savage array of stuffed animal details and skins. Heads were placed on heads, tails hung from hips, and whole fox pelts were strewn across long trains as Gaultier threw the gauntlet down at animal welfare groups.

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Yet Gaultier's clear courting of controversy detracts from his notable fur-free creations, such as his striking lime red carpet-worthy crossover gown, and his billowing cape-and-scaled-dress ensemble in luscious burgundy. The ethereal quality of some of his floatier pieces (in chiffons and silks) belie the visceral nature of the styling.

There was a clear, dark sepia palette, echoing the moody organicism of the tribal trend. Stripes were de rigeur, with tiger and zebra prints featuring on trench coats, dresses, shirts and jackets. Just a few cute, flowing smocks bucked the brown spectrum in darker, duskier shades of the primary colours. Matching tights, gloves and metallic T-bars create a striking effect that can easily be recreated in the real world.

The show finished with a recording of manical laughter, which pretty much sums up the Gaultier's attitude: the designer can now sit back and laugh at the storm he's cooked up (although we'll see whether he'll be laughing for long as PETA seeks vengeance)...

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Posted by Pui-Tien Man on February 27, 2008 11:59 AM in Paris Fashion Week
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Comments

I respect peoples views and opinions when it comes to conservation but PETA take it way to far. from the early years of this earth people were using animal skin as clothing and back then no complaint of cuelty or unfairness and then the influence of todays media behind these corporations they protest. Personally i feel Jean Paul Gaultiers clothing line with the foxes is quite a master piece. There always has been and always will be a food chain and im sure a bear or a shark wouldn't think twice about killing us humans do groups of them get together and smear red paint all over our shop fronts i dont think so. Eveyone is entitled to their own opinion and that is mine simple solution if you dont like it DONT buy it or wear it truth is their are people that will wear these designs keep striving JEAN ur amazing....

Posted by: Callan kneale | February 28, 2008 1:46 AM

Regarding the above comment - in the 'early years of the earth' people wore fur because they HAD to - there were no alternative materials to make clothing from. This is no longer the case. Faux fur these days is just as soft and warm as real fur, and there are very few places in the world where anyone needs to wear real fur; people buying the Gaultier pieces will do so because they are high fashion, not for warmth. I don't feel as passionately about the issue as PETA do, but to say that fur in fashion is acceptable because 'a bear or a shark wouldn't think twice about killing us humans' is completely ridiculous. These creatures would be acting on animal instinct; humans are supposed to be a race with superior intelligence, therefore we don't need to behave in such a bestial way. I think there is a place for fur as a 'look' in fashion, but I don't see why designers can't use the highest quality faux fur, rather than the real thing.

Posted by: Kim | February 28, 2008 11:02 AM

Not to mention that the population was a far cry from where it is now. Using that context is pure moral relativism - you could also go so far as to say women shouldn't vote because "in the early years" they didn't, or blacks should sit at the back of the bus because "in the early years" they did.

The fact is we are a society of hyper consumption --- if we continue on the track we are now there will be nothing left. For example, in 50 years we'll be out of shellfish, let alone, most sea life.

I think recycling fur is one thing - but establishing a farm for fur is just idiocy - the controversy of the collection is almost ridiculous and highly grotesque. It seems the irony has been lost.

Posted by: Danielle | March 25, 2008 1:51 PM

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