London Fashion Week A/W 2008-09: Jacob Kimmie

jacobkimmielfwaw091.jpgJacob Kimmie’s story is not so much rags to riches as, well, riches to rags. Fifteen years ago he was a financial advisor, now he’s one of the most interesting designers on the off-schedule... um schedule.

His A/W collection, titled ‘La Belle Excentrique’ was a celebration of all things British (why the French name then, Kimmie?)

It was inspired by the designers love of traditional craftsmanship and the Cool Britannia scene of the '90s - the movement which inspired Kimmie to quit his banking background and get into fashion. But did it work?

Keep reading to find out...

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The collection kicked off with a series of Barbarella inspired '60s dresses, models in strictly monochrome outfits tottered along in thigh-high PVC boots, with their hair knotted up in futuristic buns. Talking of buns, there was an alarming amount of bare butts on display, hot pants and mini-dresses are not necessarily the first things one thinks of for an Autumn/Winter wardrobe, but furry coats and military detailed plastic jackets added an extra layer of warmth. There were hints of fetish too, with tight leather straps around wrists and ankles.

As the show moved into evening wear, dresses took a more glamorous turn, heavily inspired by the work of Austrian artist, Gustav Klimt. In the most successful dress, the look was totally literal, a digital print of Klimt’s heavily worked into with gold and bronze sequins. These evening gowns were easily the best part of the collection, and perhaps something that Kimmie should focus his attentions on. The rest of the collection was nice enough, but elements of it looked rather uncannily similar to other designer’s work from last season. As for the forays into menswear? What man, Peter Stringfellow aside, really wants to wear a sequinned, see-through, mesh shirt?

All in all, a mixed bag. But Kimmie is still new to London, and let’s not forget, the fashion world in general. I’m sure he’ll find his corner of the market soon enough. Less of the bums next time though, eh?

Rachael Gibson

[Images: Catwalking.com via Getty]

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