Last year's trend of androgynous tailoring has been well and truly put to rest; Louise Amstrup's LFW On|Off debut collection celebrated the feminine silhouette, showing off slim waists with belts, and long legs in minis and coloured tights or slimline black tailoring. Elegance was clearly the word: sensually billowing chiffon gave a sense of delicacy, while the models' hair and makeup was kept fresh and natural. 'Surreal' is a word often repeated in the press release for the Danish designer, and indeed, the collection was a dreamscape of luxuriously draped silks and cottons in natural, dusty hues.
Some recurring elements tied the collection together: a graphic organic print was repeated on the lower part of several chiffon pieces, and ochre accents, block panelling and ruffles appeared on virtually every design. Yet unexpected touches gave a kick to the designs: from surprising white fringed ankle straps on black shoes, to textured panels, to the contrasting lining of full ruffled skirts, that gave a flash of colour with each step.
Even the models' hair, so wavy and unkempt from the front, was gelled and pinned severely at the back. All in all, the contrasts are what help to set Louise Amstrup apart as a designer to watch: her light and airy take on the usually heavier A/W trends are a refreshing and exciting addition to the London catwalk.
[Pui-Tien Man and Kimberley Jones]