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A huge collective ‘finally’ was breathed out as Avsh Alom Gur’s first models strutted out onto the runway. Not because the show was running horrifically late (although, of course, it was), but because this was the first show in fashion week history (I think - please correct me if I’m wrong) to feature an ensemble of all black models. The very fact that this is even newsworthy is depressingly telling of the fashion industry. It’s also true that women of colour are woefully unrepresented in the fashion industry. Much has been made of this in the news lately, with the likes of Naomi Campbell urging a change, but no-one has bothered to actually address the issue until now. So kudos for that, Avsh! Now, politics over, onto the collection itself...

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There were elements of last year’s collection here with the idea of recycling and urban life still appealing to the designer. It’s not as awful as it sounds, honest! A corrugated cardboard crinoline dress was nothing short of wonderful, and newspaper inspired batik prints worked really well. Gur was also inspired by traditional handcrafting techniques, with crochet, knitting and embroidery all in use here.

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Floaty silks in a gorgeous array of brown tones formed gorgeous billowing dresses, whilst a green floor length number (that Atonement really has inspired everyone) was a real show-stopper. African jewellery was another inspiration, and this worked best with flowing dresses suspended from necklaces and bracelets to create cape-like shapes. Oversized gems, multicoloured fur trims and leather corsetry accessorised the collection, which was, all in all, a really beautiful, refreshingly different collection.

Rachael Gibson