London Fashion Week A/W 2008-9: Bernard Chandran

Cameos were the starting point for Bernard Chandran’s autumn/winter collection, with Mary Antoinette as his muse. The Malaysian designer, known in his home country as the ‘Prince of Design’, has dressed Brunei’s royalty, so it’s not too much of a surprise to learn that he has a passion for all things regal. Capes, floor length gowns and long jackets were all on show, and his sparkly mini dresses were just the sort of thing you might expect to see Miss Universe (another regular client of his) scampering around in.

The cameo motif was all over the place in embroidered squares, ovals and circles. While actual cameos (albeit blinged up, jewel trimmed ones) were worn on wrists, belts and necklaces. The costumes of the cameos came to life too, with corsetry and vintage costume techniques used to add to the regal theme. In fact, the only thing that wasn’t quite so elegant were the models themselves. As they limped slowly down the catwalk, I was a little confused as to whether the slow, painful looking walk was intentional, or just a result of some really, really bad shoes.

The final few looks were a bit of a change of direction - long black dresses, paired with the unusual gravity-defying ponytails, black pointy shoes and hobbling walk suggested something darker. In fact, it was a look straight of Road Dahl’s The Witches novel. Still, I suppose even royalty needs fancy dress costumes every now and then, and Chandran’s spooky witch outfits would be perfect for a costume ball at the Sultan of Brunei’s place.
Rachael Gibson
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