Nathan Jenden’s third season at LFW was marked with a show at the suitably atmospheric Shunt Vaults – deep in the darkest, dingiest depths of London Bridge tube station. The atmosphere was more than a little creepy, although I suppose I should expect nothing less, London Dungeon is based in the vault next door after all. All alone at this one, and with an hour to kill, I headed to the bar for free lychee and vodka cocktails to pass the time, courtesy of my new favourite barman, Chris. Loitering with intent seemed to be a good idea until I picked up a pal. When the show finally started seating, we headed off together to the front row, where she kindly let me squish in next to her (next to CQ favourite and Jenden’s boss, Diane Von Furstenberg) – quite a jump from my lowly standing ticket…
Where Miucci Prada goes, the rest of the design world duly follows, and Miu Miu’s clown-tastic collection from last season seems to have rubbed off on everyone – even Mr Jenden. His show was full of Pierrot-looking models, with ruffly collars framing heavily made-up faces. No clown face paint here though, these models were tough manga chicks, with slashes of pink down each cheek and dark purple lips.
The collection quickly moved from clown to masquerade ball, as models in a range of spectacular gowns marched down the runway in masks encrusted with pearls, gems, and PVC bows. Pretty dresses were accompanied by tailored separates – lots of emphasis on the waist – but these weren’t your average suit jackets and pencil skirts. In metallic leather, lace, and slashed, pleated metallics, this was, in the words of the man himself, "a woman’s moment… and she is the master. Strong, independent, attitude."
Easily my favourite show so far – and I’m not just saying that because of the cocktails, promise.
Rachael Gibson
[Images: Catwalking.com via Getty]
