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UK smoking ban and its impact on fashion

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From 1st July 2007 smoking will be banned in public places across England. The ban is already in place in Ireland, Scotland and Wales as well as across the pond in New York but what impact will it have on the world of la mode? There are clearly more dramatic issues surrounding smoking and its health implications but smoking has been a key feature of entertainment and fashion for many years, will we really see supermodels huddled in doorways desperately puffing away?

At the weekend I was in a pub in England with my cousin who lives in Wales where the smoking ban is already in full swing. She became outraged by an elderly man smoking very near us, "Erm, that guy is smoking." She stated, clearly in a state of shock. Confused, I explained how smoking was not yet illegal in England and therefore that man was perfectly within the law.

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Personally, I can't quite imagine clubs where people do not smoke. I understand why the ban is being enforced but clubs without smoke is going to be a bizarre concept. My cousin explained a major downside of the ban in Cardiff where the clubs now smell of sweat rather than smoke!

Equally so, it's hard to imagine old films without women smoking elegant long cigarettes, or even Kate Moss without a pack of Marlboro Lights. In French fashion smoking is still a major prop and models reguarly appear smoking, even on the front cover. Admittedly, they do make the habit look chic and alluring, which is what British press is working hard to avoid.

Fashion's long obsession with smoking is blatantly exposed through such items as YSL's "le smoking" tuxedo and the classic pose of a model exhaling whilst looking away. It's a symbol of independence for women, which is ironic considering the dependence that smoking creates. It's also a calming influence often portraying the model as relaxed or even bored.

Jess Cartner-Morley describes the cigarette as a "high heel for the arm" which emphasises a slender arm. Models are expected to have long slender limbs but I'm not sure that taking cigarettes away would make them seem stumpy!

The recent photos of "now" model Agyness Deyn in 'W' magazine (left) show her in masculine clothing with a cigarette hanging out of her mouth. The imagery implies the masculinity and independence of smoking rather than a dependent, unhealthy habit.

The cigarette does add an element of excitement, it's a bit risque and indulgent. In fashion it's a symbol of youthful rebellion despite it realistically having an aging effect on the smoker.

[disclaimer: I am in no way condoning smoking or saying that it makes you in any way 'cool'. If you are trying to quit smoking there are many resources available to you including Quit and through the NHS]

[images: Getty, style.com]

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Posted by Laura Street on May 14, 2007 5:00 PM in Fashion News
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Comments

some of the most iconic fashion imagery has the subject smoking. I cant tell how this will effect fashion photography but there will almost certainly be a lot of bending of the rules. Im not a smoker myself but Im not entirely sure I agree with the outright ban.

Posted by: lou | May 14, 2007 5:14 PM

I'm not a smoker, but I like the aesthetic look of it in fashion photos. That's not to say it makes me want to smoke, just like how I don't want to wear gobs of eyeshadow or go swimming in a $1000 gown. It's fantasy, not reality.

Posted by: Jael | May 14, 2007 6:02 PM

In most states in the U.S. have banned smoking in public places. I think smoking looks cool, but I don't like the idea of charring my lungs haha. Maybe the models will make gum chewing cool. Or actually eating.

Posted by: Ada | May 15, 2007 4:36 AM

Smoking is NOT cool. Full stop.

I'd smell sweat rather than smoke any day.

Posted by: Hannah | May 23, 2007 7:52 PM

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