NY Fashion Week: Anna Sui
My mother was a bit of a fashion princess back in the day. She was pure 60s chic, right down to her Mia Farrow pixie cut and red patent Biba boots. This goes a long way to explaining why I love the 60s so much. Everyone who knows me is aware of this. On seeing a black mini shift dress with white inserts on the hips, my friends literally shoved me towards the cash desks to buy it amongst exclamations of "oh it's so you, Gem." And that is why I loved Anna Sui's fall collection, which was a dressing-up box full of hippy chic coats, 60s print dresses, knee-high boots and general retro fabulousness.
Sui has always been known for her accessories, and she didn't fail to live up to expectation with fabulous knee-high boots with decoration around the tops, boxy bags and gorgeous jewellery. All the models wore tights in varying patterns and textures under their pretty printed dresses. I love the high waist detail on the dresses - not quite empire line, but not quite waist cinching - and the flattering length, which is old-fashion Mary Quant, not 'look at my knickers' Jodie Marsh.
Moving on, things got even more hippy-inspired with carpet coats and fabulous bold prints. These won't appeal to everyone, but vintage fans and closet groovy chicks will have a field day. The kaftan neckline and trim on the dress on the left is fabulous and flattering, and I love the outfit on the right. Despite the fact they clash, everything works for the catwalk. The slouchy dress, the long heavy coat, the big bag and the even bigger shades, it's a glossy hippy look. Think 'fashionista does Woodstock'!
There were some more subdued pieces and less obvious prints thrown in too. The brocade coat is beautiful and would look just as good with slouchy trousers a la Marc Jacobs as it does with Sui's wardrobe of 60s dresses and kinky boots. And who could resist a touch of Twiggy with the peter pan collared satin dress? The polka dot tights are the kind of thing you wear at your own risk, but they work with the outfit.
Though Anna Sui has done the 60s look to death in previous years, she always manages to pull it off and if you like the decade, you'll love this show. For those who're not so into hippy chic, there were some less retro pieces, including killer metallic boots, satin knickerbockers, lacy slip dresses, and a wrap coat dress in deep indigo taffeta. But I'm off to raid the vintage shops for a mini kaftan...